Trail Dames - We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth

Carvers Gap and Who Lost Shemeah?

Carvers Gap and Who Lost Shemeah?

Posted on August 27, 2011 by sandiadams| 2 Comments

It was about time for a good adventure and the weekend didn’t fail us. Leslie, Still Waters, April and myself rolled on down the highway at high noon on Friday, heading toward the big town of Erwin, Tennessee. The plan was to spend the night and get up early to meet at the trailhead Saturday. I have to say the drive was absolutely a blast. We all talked nearly non-stop and laughed equally as much. At some point the words “fried fish” came out of someone’s mouth and a quest to find a little café with fried anything began. It ended at Elsie’s Steak and Seafood, home of “All You Can Eat Fried Catfish” and the local Optimist club. Obviously we all had been on some kind of fried food fast because everything that landed on the table had seen Crisco and was not long for this world. Stuffed and satisfied, we over tipped Elsie and headed toward the great town of Erwin and the Holiday Inn Express.
A friendly check-in, settling into our clean room, a quick trip to the local Wal-Mart, (Always interesting,) dinner at Clarence’s Drive In and we turned in early. There was little movement and no snoring as we all dreamed of the trail ahead.

After a fascinating breakfast at the Holiday Inn, (Who knew there was an automatic conveyer belt pancake maker?!!!) we packed up at sunrise and headed toward the Hostel to meet our group.

The Mountain Harbor Hostel /Bed and Breakfast was delightful!

For $15.00 a night, hikers can stay in a clean bed, have access to a shower, stocked frig and small kitchen. There was a small General Store that operates on the honor system and for $9.00 a full breakfast at the main house can be had. A member new to our group had stayed the night and greeted us with enthusiasm. Patty aka Dream Believer would prove to be a tireless hiker and cheerleader sharing her wisdom and love of nature.
Soon we were joined by Hemlock, Cindy, and Sweet Pea and were shuttled up a bumpy, curvy route to the trailhead at Carvers Gap. The hike began on a beautiful, blue sky, 80 degree treasure of a day, and slipping through the gate we began our hike. Almost immediately we were embraced by a Balsam Fir forest that can only grow at 5000 feet.( I looked around for Ewoks, but saw none…..) Delighted, we wandered along and soon began our ascent up Round Bald, picking our way past a mile long bucket brigade of young people restoring the trail with rocks. (One of the girls commented as we went by, that we were the pretty hikers!)
The climb continued up, as we topped Round Bald passing masses of Rhododendron bushes with the wind whipping around us. We stop periodically to spin 365 degrees and burst into the Sound of Music ,which will be our theme song for most of the trip! On we go over and up Jane Bald surrounded by magnificent mountains and valleys, numerous plants and flowers and goats grazing beside the trail, guarded by a ferocious “goat”dog.

Jane Bald proves to be the perfect lunch spot to languish in the warm sun and chat with other hikers as they pass through this intersection. Nourished, hydrated and rested we head down the AT back into the forest. Our hard work rewarded by an amazing sea of wildflowers blooming all around us. Much of the trail barely wide enough for our feet, it is like we are walking through a carpet of colors. The surprising and pleasing display included Yarrow, Daisy’s, Bee Balm, Echinacea, Dodder, Turtlehead, Phlox, Gentian, yellow and purple touch me nots, Beech Drop, Queen Anne Lace and Angelica. ^{I can hear Joan swooning in the distance……}

We pass the Stan Murray shelter, do a quick Keen Hiking boot commercial…. and follow the rolling trail down to the Overmountain Shelter, a two story red barn structure housing several college students. This proves to be a good place to regroup and watch the clouds rolling over the valley like waves in the ocean…We made the decision not to camp here, but to press on UP and over Little Hump Bald.
and this……is where we lost Shemeah……….

Almost everyone needed to replenish their water and this was the last source before we would camp. Still Waters and Hemlock had filled up while the rest of us were airing out our toes at the barn. Hemlock waited with April while the water bearers loaded up and Still Waters decided to head on to scout out a site.

The mighty climb up Little Hump began…..Hemlock, with her long legs and natural gait soon became a distant pinhead as I followed, Fabs and Leslie not far behind and April and Patty bringing up the rear. To an overhead observer, I think we might have looked like one of those slinky caterpillar toys, starting and stopping, getting closer together and stretching back out, as we made our way, our breathing heavy and labored up, up and more up.

The views are breathtaking as we go, making the pain worthwhile, majestic mountains with tufts of white clouds rising out of them, waving grasses along the trail, rocky outcrops and the sun breaking the clouds providing us with “God Rays” and more layers of blue mountain ridges.

Catching up with a waiting Joan, Leslie, Fabs and myself reach the top and go up and over trying to outrun a rain cloud with April and Patty being pursued by a rolling fog beneath us. Confident that Shemeah is ahead of us, we laugh that she has already started a fire….. Just as we hit the shelter of the scrubby trees, it starts to rain and we quickly cover out packs and put on our jackets, all the while looking along the narrow grown up trail for a place to hang four hammocks and place three tents.

Not far into the woods, I manage to once again step in a yellow jackets home and feel stinging on the back of my leg. Tearing down the trail with Leslie right on my heels feels all too familiar! Sprays and cream is applied and Joan and Fabs meet up with us after waiting for the nest to die down and suddenly we spy the perfect campsite!!! The heavens open, music plays and we are practically delirious with joy……until we realize…..there is no Shemeah……….

We are joined by April and Patty and begin the work of setting up camp before darkness falls, all the while worrying about our hiking partner. A cell call is placed with a single bar and a message is left. There is discussion about sending Hemlock out to look for her but it is decided that we will all stay put, that Still Waters is a competent hiker and will be fine. We speculate that she might be eating Spam with the Boy Scouts when suddenly we hear her entering camp with a shout!
She receives a heroes welcome and we are all relieved that our group is once again complete. Apparently, she hiked an additional 4 miles, while exploring a new trail and making a wrong turn headed back toward the Stan Murray shelter . She did indeed meet up with the Boy Scouts, but they did not have Spam. ….
Relieved, our dinners are prepared, bear bags hung, business is done and we all retire early, exhausted from the days adventures. Thankfully, I sink into my hammock, cocooned by my borrowed Yeti, (thank you KP) and faithful Ethel, slipping off to sleep to the night chorus of critters and campmates….
to be cont.

Day 9- Cuban Goodbyes...

Day 9- Cuban Goodbyes

 

 

This morning I woke up knowing that all good things must come to an end.  I didn’t sleep well at all because I was nervous about leaving, the flight to the Dominican Republic and all of the work that is waiting for me at home.  But before I had to deal with all of that, I had a few more hours left and wanted to enjoy them.  J I packed slowly, laying out the final gifts I had to give.  I left Mamma Ana some candy, a bottle of lavender shower gel and an Oprah magazine. J She doesn’t speak much English, but she can actually read it quite well from her years as a professor. She said that many genetics texts are in English, so she had to learn it.  I figure that Oprah magazine is as good a way as any to keep practicing that skill!  J

 

While I was finishing up, Alejandro knocked on the door and said that I had a visitor.  I couldn’t imagine who, since I was supposed to meet Merlin at his house in an hour.  I went to the front porch and there was David. J  He had been unable to come to the party last night and I was bummed because I wasn’t going to be able to say goodbye to him.  But there he way, grinning at me.  J  We talked a bit, and finally hugged good-bye.  He kissed me saying, “I will miss my ‘yes’ face!”  I laughed.  It had taken me forever to explain to him what that even was and when he finally got it, he loved the idea.  We were sitting at the table in Merlin’s house two days ago when he looked at me and said, “You really DO have a ‘yes’ face!!”  J J We agreed that we would email and that he would send me some of his model photos so that my friends could see what I was talking about.  J With that, he jumped back into his taxi and headed off to rehearsal.  Another good-bye down…….five to go.

 

As I waited for my own cab, I took photos of Ana and Alejandro, with us all taking turns with the camera.  Six days ago, I said, “Every time I go somewhere, the first few days are like a first date…..we are all formal and polite, not quite sure of what to make of each other.  Then it gets a little better.  By Sunday, I suspect we will all be one big happy family.”  Well, I was right.  Now these people all feel like family and even though I am sad to leave, they have a permanent place in my heart and I am ok, knowing that I can come back and see them anytime!!  J

 

When the cab finally showed up, there were hugs and kisses all around and I explained to the driver that we had to stop by Merlin’s so I can say good-bye to him and his parents.  However, when we got there, there was no Merlin to be found!  His parents got more and more agitated as we waited for him. It had started to rain lightly and they thought he had gone the three blocks to see me at my house.  But when 15 minutes passed, we knew that he had made other plans.  I stood there talking to his mom when I noticed that she was wearing one of the shirts I had given her.  Then I looked down and saw them.  She had on my tennis shoes.  I whooped and hugged her…they fit and she liked them!! She twisted around, showing them to me and we grinned at each other.  What a nice ending to the trip.  J

 

I finally hugged them once more and got into the cab.  I had exchanged tons of hugs and kisses with Merlin last night, and that would have to do.  As we drove down the wet road, I tried to fix the picture in my mind.  The buildings all shiny with rain, the plants and flowers bright and clean looking and people walking quickly to work and school, heads bent against the shower.  I was on the verge of tears when I looked up and saw someone in a red shirt riding a bike quickly towards us.  Merlin!!  I was so happy!! The taxi driver stopped in the middle of the street and I jumped out to grab him.  “I was at the house of my friend!” he said.  I was just glad to get to see him one more time.  We both looked down the block and could see the tiny figures of his parents waving at us from their front door.  Everyone was smiling.  J

 

So, Merlin rode off and I went to the airport. As I sat and waited for my plane, a guitarist sat next to me, playing for money. I explained to him that I had just exchanged all of my money, but he didn’t seem to want to take ‘no’ for an answer.  I opened my book and he sat closer and closer to me, his elbow rubbing up against mine in an attempt to keep my attention.  He went through his entire repertoire, concentrating especially on American music and when he finally broke into The Beatle’s “Yesterday”…. in Spanish….I got the giggles.  I just wanted to be quiet and read and think about the week, but I was in the middle of a Mr. Bean sketch.  When it was time to go through customs, they sent me back to pay the $25 airport tax…..in cuban money…..which I did not have.  I sighed and went back around to the money exchange to turn some of my recently converted Euros back into Cuban money. When the guy handed me all bills and one single CUC coin, I knew it was a sign from the universe.  I walked back to the guitarist and handed him the coin.  Sometimes persistence just has to be rewarded.  J

 

A four hour delay, a two hour flight, one cuba libre and a $25 cab ride later, I found myself back in Santo Domingo, DR, at the Quality Inn Suites.  I have shown that I can be at home anywhere…..one-star hotels, hostels, and hovels. J It is time for some hot water, air conditioning, and high speed internet.  I have an entire free day tomorrow, and while I might take a $40 cab back to the Cathedral, I just might hunker down and answer the 300+ emails that I got while I was gone. As far as I am concerned, this adventure has come to an end.  And oh, what an adventure it was………

Thank you for following my emails and for sending me encouraging messages. I leave this trip feeling even more grateful for the life that I am leading and the friends and family that I have. 

Muchas, muchas gracias,

Anna

Day 8-Cathedrals, tennis shoes and blue beaded necklaces.....

Day 8-Cathedrals, tennis shoes and blue beaded necklaces.....

 

This morning, I slept in and leisurely went through my suitcase.  I have so much to leave behind and want to get it all divided up to give as gifts later today.  After organizing everything, I took some quiet time to sit and finish typing up yesterday’s report.  I went out into the main part of the house and asked Anna if I could sit at the dining room table.  She brought me fresh mango and café cubano and I, once again, was in heaven.  

 

My main goal of the day was to go see the cathedral.  We walked by it several times in the last few days, but I did not get a chance to really enjoy the square and the church itself, so off I went to find a taxi.  Yes, I have made this walk many times this week, but at this point, it is about 845 degrees outside and I just don’t have it in me!  I chose a taxi from the long line of cars in front of the nearby hotel, going for the 1956 Chevy.  There are some newer, smaller cars…all of which obviously have air conditioning…but I do not care! I want to ride in one of these cool old cars!! I asked the gentleman, “how much for the Cathedral?” and he said something I didn’t understand, followed by ‘cinco’.  “Five?” I said, and he nodded.  Best five bucks I ever spent!  I jumped in the front seat and we took off.  He turned away from the direction we were supposed to be heading and started climbing the hills out of town.  Hmmm…..the cathedral that I want is actually downhill from everything else.  I know because when we went to it last night, Merlin warned me that after the cathedral, it was all ‘uphill’.    (which, of course, made me smile….).  Anyway, he was chatting merrily and saying Cathedral-something-or-other and I realize that we are going to a whole other cathedral, which might be ok, but could also be a two hour drive away!!  So I look at him quizzically and say, “Cathedral?  En centro de Santiago ?  (which I really hope means, “The Cathedral? In the middle of town? )   “Eiiiiyeee!”, he says and nods, speaking a whole lot of Spanish and smiling while he turns the car around.  We are finally heading in the right direction and the neighborhoods start looking familiar again.  I know that the fare was too high, but I do not expect him to change his mind, given the change in destination.  It is ok by me and worth it to take that ride!  

 

When he drops me off at the cathedral, I take pictures and gaze adoringly at it. Seriously!  It is beautiful and was originally built in the 1500’s!! It actually stands way up high, sitting on top of a lot of small shops, all closed because it is Sunday. When I try to get in to the wrought iron gates that lead to the stairway, a woman says kindly, “Closed til 5:00” Of course, she says in en espagnol, but I get the drift.  Oh well….. I continue to stroll around the square, but by the time the fourth man has walked by me making kissing sounds, (turns out, I am fairly popular here!!), I decide that it is time to get off the street for a while and I head to Casa Trova.  Last night, I told you about meeting the two different musicians that both said that they were playing at Casa Trova today at 1:00? Well, I walked in, took a seat in the back and looked up to see them waving at me from the stage!!  The room was small and open on one side to the street.  It was full of small chairs covered in leather that still had the hair attached in places, and there was one lone empty chair in the back, with one tiny table.  See, it was meant to be.   I quickly tood a seat and looked up to watch my new friends.  They were both playing on a small stage with four other musicians. The place was small and full of locals...not a tourista in sight til me, (and then later two women).  When I walked in and the musicians started waving enthusiastically, all of the locals turned to look at me.   Then, as I sat down, a man came over to greet me.  It was one of the cellists whose bow I had rehaired earlier in the week!!!  He kissed me and sat down to join me for a beer.  Everyone was looking at me like, "How in the world does that tourist know all these people!!"  :) :) It was awesome!!  The music was awesome as well and I spent the better part of an idyllic afternoon sitting there, swaying and smiling to the beat.

 

 At one point, two women came in, and I recognized them as they sat right in front of me.  I saw them two days ago and knew that they were tourists, but pegged them for Europeans, so I didn't talk to them.  However, when they sat down, someone asked them where they were from and they said "Estados Unitos".  I leaned forward and said, "Where in the US are you from?", and they both started laughing.  One of the women turned around and said, "Oh, are you another disobedient servant of the crown?” :) :)  I laughed and laughed.  "Si", I said. Turns out, she IS from Germany , (I knew she wasn't your run of the mill American), but lives in San Francisco now, with her friend.  They were great, and are the first Americans I have met that aren't here legally. It made me feel better to talk to them and laugh a little.

 

When the music finished, the band all gathered around me to sign the CD that I bought, (naturally, I had to have something to remember this by!).  They all knew that I was a cellist and bassists so I assume the guitarist and bassist had filled them in.  To feel so accepted was wonderful beyond words!  Have I mentioned how much I love Santiago ? :) 

 

After the music, I finished the afternoon at the outdoor restaurant overlooking the Cathedral. I figure if I can’t go in the church, I might as well spend some time enjoying the view. :)  The pizza here…what is it with these people and not serving Cuban food?!?...was fabulous!!  Imagine a large, thin sopapilla with red sauce and a little cheese.  Not Cuban, per se, but it will do. :)  On the square, people are relaxing on the benches, not moving any more than they have to.  There is a nice breeze coming through and storm clouds are rolling in.  The line of taxis doesn’t move……there are no tourists here to hail them.  So I stare at a row of 1950’s American cars and fantasize about what it must have been like back then….the buildings freshly painted in pastels, the cigar smoke wafting by and the sounds of Cuban music spilling out of bars and hotels.  Funny….the only thing that is different is the age of the paint………..

 

Now, I have to go to my party.  It is raining and thundering furiously outside and I am hoping that Latin-time can apply to me tonight. J  Sitting on my bed typing with the windows and doors all open, the oscillating fan circulating cool air and the birds singing, I don’t really want to move just yet.  Yet….how often do you have people get together in your honor?  :) I better jump in the shower…..

 

(Later………)

 

Well, I am getting ready to climb into my bed here in my Cuban home for the last time.  This week has gone by so quickly!!  This evening, I headed to Martin’s place for our party, making a stop by his family home first.  It was drizzling softly and I walked slowly towards the house, carrying six bags of things I had brought from America for them.  His sister, Maline, saw me coming and ran out to help me.  Once inside, I started opening bags and showing them what I had brought.  I was nervous.  I read on the internet that everyday toiletries are very expensive in Cuba and not of a good quality, so they are very much appreciated by most families.  I was banking on that, since that is most of what I brought.  Lotion, sunscreen, new hand towels, toothbrushes and toothpaste, soap, tampax, etc.  The women, (Merlin had stepped out and his dad is out of town), were very excited and appreciative.  The real fun came, however, when I gave Maline the colorful headbands and fruity lip balm that I had purchased with her in mind. What 12 year old girl doesn’t like lip balm that tasted like Life Savers!!  :) One of our local Duluth women had donated a recorder and when I gave it to Maline, she squealed with excitement.  It was my second most favorite moment of the day. :) 

 

She prattled on and on to me in Spanish, her eyes glowing with excitement.  Then I pulled out the bag of clothes I had for Mama Rosita.  She is my size and had commented on my tee shirt earlier in the week, so half of my suitcase ended up going to her.  I thought she was going to pop from excitement!!  She said that in Cuba , it is hard to find clothes her size and that she was so happy!!  It made me wish I had brought six suitcases full for her.  I also had new underwear for her and assorted other things.  And of course, I had to give her a Trail Dames tee shirt. :)  I don’t know how, and I don’t know when, but someday she will be walking along the streets of Santiago and someone will say to her, “Are you a Trail Dame?! Me too!!”  :)

 

At the very bottom of the bag were my tennis shoes.  Last Tuesday, she and I had a long talk about our shoe size and how it is so hard to find shoes for wide feet.  That was the only day that I even wore my tennis shoes and she commented how nice they were. This evening, as I was getting ready to leave for the party, I just wanted to cry. I sat there looking at those shoes…nice, but worn…clean, but scuffed and obviously used….and wished that I had something better to give her.  I wasn’t even sure she would want them, so it was with a little trepidation that I even packed them.  Then, when I looked at her questioningly and pulled them out of the bag, her whole face changed.  I thought she was going to cry.  She just hugged and hugged me.  That was my favorite moment of the night.

 

We finished up the gift giving with a bag of assorted candy and some bubbles.  They didn’t know what the bubbles were, so I had a great time opening them and cascading bubbles across the room. We all three squealed like little girls and giggled and giggled. I called to Merlin to come translate my explanation of the Pop Rocks candy that I had included and then we headed out.  Lasier and his wife Eunice were already at the house with their 4-year old daughter, Ariana. Later we were joined by one of Merlin’s bass teachers, and we had the best time sitting around and talking. :) I broke the ice with a timid Ariana by taking her picture and showing it to her.  After that, I showed Ariana how to work my iPhone and it was official…I was her favorite person!  :) I showed her how to play Angry Birds and she and her mother, Eunice, were hooked in no time!  But Ariana’s favorite was the camera and we all laughed and posed for her as she wore out the batteries in both devices having a good time. 

 

Shortly, Maline and Mamma Rosita came bustling in and called me into the kitchen. They presented me with a gift in a colorful bag.  They had wrapped a pretty three-stranded necklace with blue beads and matching earrings. They said that it matches my eyes. :) Then they gave me a little wooden bracelet.  There was a card from them all, along with a Cuban postcard.  I tried not to cry as Maline fastened the necklace around me and I put the earrings and bracelet on.  How do you tell people that the greatest gift they could give you is letting you be a part of their family for a week? I was so moved and of course, I will treasure that jewelry forever.

 

Later, a dinner of fish, pork, rice and beans was served and soon followed by good-byes. Everyone has to work tomorrow and needs some sleep.  Lasier hugged me three times, and I tried to put a whole lot of gratitude into my returning hug.  This good-bye was soon followed by more of the same with Maline. I am going to stop by the house in the morning to say good-bye to Mamma Rosita, but she will be in school.  Oh, this is the hard part!

Merlin and I closed out the evening…walking for an hour and visiting a subdued Garzon (I actually spelled this wrong last night), before finally heading home. He, too, hugged me three times and kissed me at the street corner where he turns for home.  I teased him all week, “You will miss me when I am gone”.  I think he actually might…..I know I will miss him.

Buenos Noches,

Anna

Day 7- Unforgetable

Well, it is 1:30 in the morning and I am getting in after a long, marvelous day. J  I slept in a bit this morning, because Merlin wasn’t supposed to pick me up until 9:00 and as I sat waiting for him, Anna brought me a wonderful cup of Café Cubano.  This might just be my favorite thing about Cuba !!  J

 

After breakfast we took a brisk 45 minute walk through the city.  (Can you imagine… Merlin accuses me of walking fast all of the time!! ME?!?!?) We ran into David (the conductor) and one of the young violin students, who promptly kissed us hello and turned around to join us.   Our destination for the morning was a flute concert that Lasier is playing on.  We arrived at a lovely little white and blue courtyard, right off of a busy street, and this morning it has been transformed into a small concert setting. I am trying to relax and talk to David, who is delightful in every way, but mostly I am trying not to throw up.  The heat and my general state of dehydration have finally gotten to me and I am not feeling well at all.  I asked Merlin to stop for water twice on the way to the concert, but in the general camaraderie and excitement of the walk, we did not stop.

 

And you must understand, the walk is always exciting!  There are people everywhere, dodging each other and skipping over the big potholes in the sidewalk.  The sun is bright and the sky is a brilliant, brilliant blue, with the rare breeze feeling like utter heaven. The traffic whizzes by, a combination of old Chevrolets, Oldsmobile’s and Fords, mixed with motor bikes and huge trucks, all with their original mufflers. J The sidewalks are narrow and uneven in some places, forcing you to take your life into your hands as you step into the street to avoid a group of giggling school children, or a couple of elderly women walking arm and arm.  The smells of frying dough and men’s cologne mix with those of exhaust and stale beer. Merlin knows everyone and is very popular, so there is a constant stream of people stopping to greet him and say hello. All in all, it is like a big moving social event, albeit with a bit more road hazards than you would normally find at a party!!

 

When we arrive at the flute concert, Merlin says, “Anna, I must go for the work for 5 minutes….I will return”  This happens all of the time and 5 minutes truly means 45 so I ask him to please bring me water when he comes back and settle in for some flute music. There were five flautists, including Lasier, who plays on the only bass flute in Cuba .  These are all professional musicians and they were wonderful!  It was literally perfect, all rapid runs up and down and silky harmonies.   Fifteen feet away, the traffic raced by, offering a constant accompaniment of beeping horns and the above-mentioned ensemble of mufflers from the 1950’s.  But it didn’t distract me at all.  Between the truly beautiful music, the trying not to simultaneously pass out and throw up, and the listening to David’s thoughtful translation of the introduction to each piece, I was fairly focused. J

 

When the concert finished, each musician was presented with flowers and I turned to see Merlin in the back with my water.  I was so relieved….it was going to be very embarrassing to have a heat stroke in front of theses people!!  J  I drank a liter without stopping and felt much better. Lasier walked up and gave me his flowers with a smile.  These men are so wonderful!  After telling everyone that they were fabulous, we headed back to the workshop one last time.  We have about 10 more bows to finish before we are officially done.  David joins us, as does Lasier, and together with Merlin, the four of us spend the next three hours deep in bow work and conversation.  David and I have so much in common, (with the exception that he is a world famous conductor and underwear model- Oh, did I forget to mention that?) J.  We decide that if we were ever living in the same city, we would be the best of friends!  I hand out Tootsie Roll Pops to anyone that comes in and before we know it, we are finished.  We think that the final count is 53-ish rehairs, 12 faceplates, 2 stick cracks, one stamp protector and five thumb leathers, in four and a half days.  Wow………

 

When we are done cleaning up the tools, me leaving a big pile of materials for Merlin, Lasier asks if he can take me for a beer, so the four of us go across the street to a disco that is in full swing, despite the fact that it is 3:30 in the afternoon.  We descend into an air-conditioned, all-black room with TV screens playing loud Cuban street rap and take a seat around a small metal table.  Four beers and a Malta (some kind of sweet, malted beverage that David orders since he does not drink) appear on the table and I look around.  The place is mostly empty, but the people that are there are all families with small children running around.  It is a bit disconcerting to see all of the little kids while hoochie mammas shake their bodies on the TV, but it is normal life here.  I begin to tease Lasier about looking so cool and kicked back in his chair when he explains that he is the boss here. He is kind of the manager and he really is cool and kicked back!  It turns out that the plate of food he brought me several days ago came from this place.  I feel a little relieved knowing that all that meat was in an air-conditioned building at one point!!  J J As we start to talk about leaving, it is obvious that no one really wants to say good bye, so in a quick flurry of Spanish, the guys come to some sort of agreement.  “Anna, we would like to make for you a party at my house tomorrow night….is that good for you?” Ummmmm……….YES!  J J So we said good bye to Lasier until tomorrow and Merlin, David and I went to Merlin’s house for food. 

 

We stroll down the neighborhood streets talking like we have all three been friends forever, which it kind of feels like. The guys head up to Merlin’s, while I go to say hello to his mother.  I have not seen her in a few days and feel badly. I knock on their door, crying out “Mamma Cubana…..Yo Anna” and she comes to the door with Maline, Merlin’s 12 year old sister.  Maline was shy the first time we met but now she prattles away in Spanish like I am her long lost big-sister.  She is bright as she can be and is the first to understand when I have no idea what someone is saying.  She also studied a little English, and while she can’t say anything, she understands the concept, so when she speaks to me, she speaks very slowly, always stopping to say the verb with raised eyebrows and a nod. She is fabulous!!

 

After greetings all around, I went back the three doors down to join the guys for lunch.  As we are waiting, David and I sit at the tiny kitchen table on a side porch while Merlin fusses around, doing dishes and straightening up.  The last time Martin was here, he left an iPod with small speakers and an incredible play list.  David plays DJ, switching between Smetana tone poems and we all hum the parts of our various instruments when The Moldau comes on.  Merlin goes outside, climbs a ladder and picks small, golden mangos from the tree outside of his window. He brings them in, rinses them off and gives them to us. David says, “You have not lived until you have had a mango, warm from the tree”.   He then says, “Wait, I have something for you!” and proceeds to play Copeland’s “Appalachian Spring” on the iPod.  There we sat….a breeze coming through the slatted windows, Copeland swirling softly around the room, and warm mango juice running down our chins.  There are just no words. 

 

Soon, Mamma and Maline come in, having made a wonderful meal, with rice and beans, fresh tomatoes, some kind of grilled pork and a little tiny banana (banana-nita? J). It is so, so good and I am happy that finally, at the end of my trip, I have a bit of appetite.   We sit for hours, talking about every conceivable topic.  David talks about how conducting makes him feel, and he and Merlin give me some insight into the Latino male mind….explaining their feelings about the women in their lives.  David talks about Serbia and what it is like to live in a civil war and Merlin’s face lights up when he talks about the bass part to Shostakovich’s 5^th symphony.  The conversation dances from English to Spanish and back again, with David laughing and translating every time they forget and speak to me in Spanish.  However, I find it easy to follow the Spanish in conversations like these and love the feeling of understanding that comes from time to time.  As the sun starts to set, David puts Nat King Cole on, and as he begins to sing “Unforgettable”, David says to me, “That is what you are to us, Anna….Unforgettable”.  Then he says with a raised eyebrow and cheeky half-grin, “I know that you think that all Latin men say these things, …but this time, I mean it” J J I am half laughing and all touched.  And right on cue, another one of those moments hits me like a brick.  I am so sad to leave this place and these people.  It is amazing the depth of connections you can make in just a few days and my heart squeezes at the thought of leaving them. 

Really, this time has been unforgettable……

 

The sun has set when we finally leave Merlin’s place.  David actually has no idea where he is (it turns out that he is a guest conductor from Havana and stays in a hotel when he is here), so Merlin is going to walk him home.  They are going in the direction of Hotel Santiago and I want to check email, so the three of us head that way, walking down the middle of the street, where the breeze is the coolest.  Conversation is easy and David talks about how happy he is to spend the day with us.  He usually holes up in his hotel room, but today he is happy to be sending time with friends.  They drop me off at the hotel and I go in to check my email.  Did I mention that a few days ago, I met a man and woman here from the United States ? And that he is a pianist from New Orleans ? Well, I did.  J When I first met him, he was sitting in with the musicians, playing a Joplin rag on the piano, and when I introduced myself to him, he said, “Isn’t it staggering how great these musicians are?”  That sentence has stuck with me all week long and when he walked up and said hello, I told him that. We ended up having a drink together and he explained that he was here on a music research visa.  His name is Tom and he really is an awesome pianist!  Since the musicians here all know him, and since the violinist in the group knows me, (My having rehaired his bow and cleaned his violin for him earlier in the week), the whole group comes and sings for us and hangs out for a while.  It is lovely.   Tom invites me out to hear some music, but I have Merlin coming to pick me up at 10 so I tell him that I will keep an eye out for him.

 

I finally end the day by going to Merlin’s house and pretending to be Martin, saying “Come Merlin!  Let us go to where the party it!!” J   We walk up to the main street and there is a huge street fair going on!  They have closed the giant four-lane road and there are vendors selling food, beer, bottles of rum, and jewelry for about a mile. It is called Garcon and Merlin explains that it happens every single weekend.  I love it!!  There are thousands of people everywhere.  Gangs of teen-aged boys elbow each other and glance covertly at the pretty girls, who all studiously look away, only to giggle madly moments later.  Men stand in discussion while women walk arm in arm, stopping to chat with friends.  Impromptu music groups have sprung up from place to place and as people sway to the tunes, dogs weave through the crowds hoping for some food dropped off of a paper plate.  It is my idea of a good time and Merlin quickly tires of me going to up musicians and talking to them. The funny thing is, I met both a guitarist and a bassist who are playing in a band at Casa Trova tomorrow at 1:00!  I met them literally a mile and a half from each other!  When I told Merlin that I thought it was neat that out of a million musicians in this town, I would randomly meet two from the same band, he was not impressed.  I surely need to spend some more time with this young man to educate him on the magic and wonderful-ness that is happening here!!  J J J

 

Now I am back home at 1:30 and I am sorry that this has gone on a bit.  But how can you pack such an amazing day into 3 pages of type?  I have left out a thousand stories and a million impressions, but I hope that you are getting some kind of flavor for this vibrant place.  For now, my bed is calling me loudly and I will say…..

Buenos Noches,

Anna

Day 6-Total Absence of the Blues

Day 6

 

It is 9:00, and I am sitting here on my bed in a pool of melted sweat, relaxing after a nice dinner of cheese pizza.  Ok, the pizza wasn’t that nice….but it was easy and fast and I was able to eat it after doing a quick internet check.  J  I think I might be the only person to ever visit Cuba and not eat at a Cuban restaurant!!  If I suggest it, Merlin gets very upset and says that it is very expensive, and that “we can eat at his house…..just let him go tell his mother to fix me something”.  The only other place to eat that I know of is the hotel down the street.  They have a snack bar and a hoity-toity restaurant that I cannot afford.  Since I am only eating one meal a day…the snack bar it is. J  When I get home, I will go to the Cuban restaurant in Norcross…..it is wonderful. J J

 

Anyway, it is dark outside, the temperature is cooling down to a nice 90 degrees and it is time for bed, right? Wrong!  Merlin will be here in an hour to take me to hear traditional Cuban music! It is about time!!  I am so excited and I will tell you all about it tomorrow!  J  Today was another day full of rehairing bows and seeing students and musicians. Many now greet me like an old friend, kissing me on the cheek as they say hello. It makes me feel so good!    We had another breakthrough today in Cuban/American relations, as well.  You know how I keep talking about these moments that always happen for me when I travel overseas? Well today, right on cue, came the next one.  (I could set my watch by these things.)  Today was the day that everyone forgot that I don’t speak Spanish. J  It always happens around the end of the first week…..people just look at me and start spewing Spanish in normal conversation. These are people that know me!  Trust me; this is not because of some new-found fluency on my part.  I think it happens when the novelty of having a foreigner (me) around finally wears off.  It is pretty funny, actually.  Merlin and I were having an in depth bow conversation when all of the sudden, he switched to Spanish, in mid-sentence, no less! .  When I just looked at him, he simply said, “I know…..I just don’t know how to say it in English”, and then proceeded to keep talking to me in Spanish.  I just laughed and laughed. What are you going to do?

 

My favorite part of the day (so far) was late this afternoon when Merlin, Lasier and I were working on bows.  Two of the young teenage students…both very pretty girls…were hanging out waiting for us to finish their bows, flirting lightly with both of the guys and eating the M and M’s I was sharing.  J  Merlin was playing music on his phone…some sort of Latin hip-hop…. and all of the sudden a slow, Latino love song came on.  Merlin started singing softly as he worked and soon, both Lasier and the girls all joined in.  They didn’t really know they were all singing together, they were just each caught up in the song.  It was one of those moments, you know?  One of those moments when everything got kind of quiet and everyone seemed so content and comfortable.  I just smiled to myself as I combed out the bow hair, thinking, “how lucky am I?”.  I know I say that a lot, and when I am at home, I feel lucky and blessed each and every day. But when I am on one of my adventures, things like this take on a kind of glow and it really brings home how great this life really is. 

 

(Later........ at 1 am…)

Ok, so if you are going to suffer permanent hearing damage, it should definitely happen in a Cuban bar, don’t you think?  J  I am back from my evening and it was wonderful, wonderful, wonderful!  When we left the house, I could tell that something was different.  It is Friday night in Santiago and the town had a celebratory feel to it. The women on the streets were all dressed up and the children were completely precious, wearing little shawls, three piece suits….the ninas wearing flowers in their hair. We walked to the concert hall where we work every day and turned down a street that was full of people.  Every building had a restaurant or bar in it and they all had live Cuban music going on!  I think I have died and gone to heaven!!  We waited in a park for Lasier, and there were people dancing in the square, a band playing under a pavilion and old cars driving by, spewing exhaust from 1956.  It was awesome!  As we sat in the park and waited, Merlin and I played the ‘what country do you think THEY are from’ game.  England , France , Germany ?  I am usually very good at this game and it turns out, so is Merlin, so we had a great time talking about everyone that walked by. J 

 

When Lasier didn’t show up, we started the evening in one of Santiago’s most famous clubs.  Merlin with a beer and me with a Mojito, we settled in for some music.  I have to say, the music was amazing…but very, very loud. I consoled myself by saying that it sure was a heck of a way to lose your hearing, but early on, couldn’t bring myself to leave.  I mean, I was in Cuba , listening to a traditional Cuban band, for Pete’s sake!!

Then they walked in.  Five adults.  Laughing, dancing their way to their seats, making a graaaaand entrance.  The man looked like a brunette Woody Allen and was dancing across the entrance way wearing a tee shirt that said, “F*#% you, you f*#^ing f*#%”. 

The Americans are here.

 

For the first time, I saw how we really look to the rest of the world.  I have to admit, I was laughing at the tee shirt…you can blame the mojito on that.  I mean, who wears a shirt like that??? Then I realized that not only was I a little embarrassed, but I had reached my decibel limit.  Two professional salsa dancers had come out and were working the crowd. Merlin wasn’t so thrilled by the music either so I suggest (yelled, really) that we go find something better.  He was horrified that I would pay $5 for each of us and then leave 45 minutes later, but I explained that given my face, it was only a matter of time before that salsa dancer zoned in on me and that one mojito was NOT enough to get me out on the dance floor! He acquiesced and sure enough, as we were leaving, I glanced back to see the Americans being dragged onto the dance floor by the pros.  (Whew, that was a close one)  J

 

We strolled from place to place, checking out bands, making a quick stop in the middle of a square to visit with some bass playing friends of Merlins.  After talking about Baby Basses, (everyone here loves Ampeg!!!), we asked the advice of his friends and ended up at a delicious bar across the square.  Long and narrow, with a hundred plants hanging overhead and oscillating fans blowing the air around, the outdoor café with its live band was perfect.  We were soon joined by yet another of Merlin’s bass playing friends, and sat enjoying beers and the music for a while.

 

Several phone conversations took place  with Merlin on his cell phone and it turned out that he was in the middle of a big personal problem involving women.  (Doesn’t it always involve women?!)  As he got more and more depressed, I finally taught the both of them about the blues.  Not playing the blues, which they both understood completely, but having the blues.  (Try explaining THAT in a second language!!)  When we finally closed the restaurant down, Merlin declared that he had the blues and needed to go home and play his bass for a while.  The three of us strolled through the darkened streets of Santiago laughing and joking, slowly chasing his blues away.  When we neared my corner, Merlin said, “Please to come, Anna….help me chase the blues away…we will play the bass!!”  I laughed and explained to him that I was old and that he and his friend would do just fine without me.  J  After a bit more cajoling, I sent them on their way and walked the last block home.  I am happy, peaceful, and about as far away from the blues as a girl can get.

Buenos Noches,

Anna

Day 5- Don't tell my parents!!

Day 5

Don’t tell my parents!!!

 

So, today started just like any other day…….isn’t it funny that I can say that when I haven’t even been here a whole week?  But when it feels like you have been here for months, you can say….today started just like any other day. J  I got up and ate some of the fabulous fresh mango and pineapple Anna had made for me, before heading out the door for the half hour walk to the concert hall.  I now know my way there with no problems and would love to walk it by myself, so that I could slow down and take some pictures.  But Martin has told Merlin that he MUST take good care of me!  In fact, Merlin says that he is my Cuban body guard and he takes being my escort very seriously.  By the time we are ten minutes into our commute, I am soaked with sweat.  It is really, really hot here. The humidity is soaring and luckily, I came with my Haiti mindset. That being… dress comfortably, pull your hair back, prepare to never be dry and step in front of every fan you see!!  J  Even the Cubans are hot.  You can see them all fanning themselves and keeping to the shady side of the street.  But they don’t seem to sweat much.  They look cool as can be and I find myself wishing I had a bit of their DNA.

 

When we got to the school, people started pouring in, picking up their bows from yesterday, dropping others off.  Did I mention that they were dropping more off?! You would not believe the pile of bows we have to do! I say ‘we’, but Merlin deposited me at the work bench and took off. He had lots of work to do elsewhere so I was on my own.  I started cutting and cleaning and filing and polishing and combing and tying and rosining til I thought my hands would fall off.  Official count as of now is 20 rehairs, 5 faceplates and four thumb leathers in two days.  J Please don’t tell my parents because they might seriously start to re-think their expectations of my work at the shop!!  J  Merlin did help with some of those faceplates…in fact, if you count the ones that he did by himself, we are up to about 8 faceplates.  Not bad for two days!!  J  At one point, an elderly man brought me a bass bow and asked for hair and a faceplate. His faceplate was bad, but it was still in one piece, so I told him that I would try. I would definitely do the hair but that I would have to see, time-wise, if I could get to the faceplate.  He walked out and returned several minutes later, walked up to me and handed me a huge, beautiful mango.  I laughed and laughed and told him that presents would get him special treatment.  I looked at that mango all day long and his bow was finished by 6 oclock. J

 

Before lunch, David, the conductor of the symphony came in to sit and talk to me while I worked. He is a few years younger than me and has lived all over the world.  He speaks good English and I enjoy hearing about why he chose the music that they are playing for this concert.  After hearing him discuss the difficulty of playing Faure with the orchestra, I finally asked him, “How is it possible that these people play so well with such terrible equipment? “  Earlier I had heard a Paganini Caprice being played in the court yard by what could have been Jasha Heifetz….seriously.  David said, “When I was growing up, my bow was terrible….it had no camber and a third of the hair.” When I would say something to my teacher, they would say, “You make it work….if you have no hair, you find more power in your bow arm…..whatever it takes, you find a way”.  And that is exactly what these musicians have done.  These are not, ‘oh-bless-their-heart-they-are-poor-and-have-no-resources’ musicians…..these are ‘thank-god-they-aren’t-showing-up-for-major-symphony-auditions-cause-all-those-Curtis-kids-would-be-screwed’ musicians. J And it is a pleasure to be rehairing for them.

 

My wonderful friend from yesterday, Lasier, is back and watching most of the day. He can still read my mind and when I figured out how to say it to him in Spanish; he grinned and said that the last LSF guy said the exact same thing to him.  He brought me two cookie-type things at one point for breakfast and later offered to go get me a beer.  I tried to explain to him that drinking while working didn’t really work for me and that I would wait til later, He smiled and took off, coming back 15 minutes later with a heaping plate of food!!  He said that I had not stopped or eaten all day long and that I needed food.  He took the lid off with a flourish and showed me a giant plate of meat. Yeeesh.  Some of it I recognized…ham, cured ham (I think) and some sort of shrimp heaped on what looked like white worms but wasn’t pasta.  ???  The rest of the meat ….there were six different kinds circling the plate…looked tripe-ish.  Oh my…..  Oh, and there was something that looked like Vienna sausage.  The whole thing was covered with slices of cheese.

 

Most of you know that I was a vegetarian for 10 years.  Now I eat meat all the time, and I have no problem with it…mostly.  But this…..there was a whole lot of pig staring at me off of this plate.  How was I ever going to eat it?  This was street food at it’s finest…...all at room temperature.  I just didn’t think I could do it.  But really, you cannot just travel somewhere and turn down kindness like this!!  I didn’t want him to think that Americans were too good to eat their food….or that I didn’t appreciate it!  So, I took a bite of ham in front of him….”Yummmmm’, I said, smiling.  Then I took a bite of Vienna sausage.  Umm…..so definitely NOT Vienna sausage. After he stepped out, I started pushing the food around like crazy, trying to pile it up,  leaving big empty spaces on the plate.  That plate of meat sat their all afternoon.  Cubans would come in, I would offer them some, they would dig in and the blank spots would grow.  At the end of the day, there was STILL meat on that plate!  But there was a lot less and I didn’t feel so badly. 

 

Towards the end of the day, Merlin’s bass teacher came in for an emergency rehair. He is flying to Havana to play a Donzenetti opera tomorrow and was having bow problems.  Merlin did it for him while we talked about bass players we knew.  I shared some M and M’s with them and he showed me photos of his two year old son.  It was a great ending to the day and it stressed for me again, just how small the music world is and how we all have this great thing in common that brings us together, even when we know nothing about each other. 

 

After work, I went home, walking part of the way by myself. Merlin quizzed me on directions and finally seems to feel that I am ok.  I go in to tell Anna that we will not be going to Guantanamo after all and that I will be staying another three nights after tonight.  She smiles and hugs me and says that she is so glad and that I am part of the family.  J  When I ask for directions to the laundry mat, she insists on doing my laundry at no charge.  “It makes our family so happy to have you here”, she said.  How lucky am I?  I gave her my mango, explaining that it was a gift to me and that I wanted to give it to her as a gift. She laughed and said that tomorrow morning, she would make me more mango for breakfast….”not THIS mango”, she said, pointing at the one that I had given her, “I will make you a different one”. 

I feel so cared for. J

 

Tomorrow, I think we might finally be going to hear some music, so if you don’t hear from me, it is because I am salsa-ing with a good-looking Cuban man.  J I will follow up with all of the details later. J But for now……

Buena Noches,

Anna

Day 4- ESP and Secret Girlfriends

This morning, Merlin was supposed to pick me up at 8 am to go to work for the day.  At 5 minutes til, there was a knock on my door…he was here!  With lots of “Buenos dios’s” and “Hola’s” we were off. Today he took me a different way to the school and we spent more time in the neighborhoods before being spit out into the hustle and bustle of the center of town.  The sky was bright blue and the heat was coming off of the street in waves.  Between that and the smog from the cars, it was a bit of a shock to this poor girl who had not had her coffee!!  Speaking of which, there is no such thing as ‘to-go’ here.  And if I were to ask to run into a shop and down a quick cup of espresso, Merlin would immediately insist on marching me back to his mother and have her make me a cup!  For now, I will just deal with the caffeine headache and enjoy my surroundings.  This much noise, color and life is surely enough to distract me! J

 

When we arrived at the school, Merlin went to find out which room we were working in and within 15 minutes, I was spreading out my tools and taking in my first bow. Ahhh…I cannot tell you how good that felt!  Don’t get me wrong…there is nothing wrong with just being a tourist and having a good old-fashioned vacation!  But I have been focused on coming here and doing some good for a long time and the last couple of days have made me somewhat antsy!  Two clips of the scissors….old horse hair falls to the ground, and I heave a sigh of relief.  This is what I came here for.  The first hour went be so nicely….I had three bows come in and I was leisurely putting a thumb leather on one while listening to the symphony rehearsal next door. It probably should have occurred to me that the majority of the bows were actually over there being played!! Sure enough….rehearsal ended and bows started flying through the door!!  And just when they slowed to a trickle, here came the students from the local middle and high schools! 

I looked at the giant pile of bows and decided that I had officially lost my mind!!

 

I spent the next two hours rehairing like mad! When Merlin asked me if I wanted to go to his house for lunch, I decided that it was HIM who had lost his mind!!!  I couldn’t go any where, and told him so.  I had a bag of nuts and a protein bar in my bag…if I could find time to eat them.  J  The afternoon sped by with Merlin dropping in from time to time to help. He is actually quite good at faceplates, so as soon as I got them all glued on, I gave them to him to cut out, which worked great cause I was still rehairing like crazy.  J Merlin tried to explain that I didn’t need to clean and lubricate the bows…just put hair into them.  No way!   I tried explaining that you have to do this….the bow will last a lot longer and perform better if all of the parts work well together and aren’t gunked up with the residue of 10 years of hard playing in the heat and humidity of Cuba.  I don’t think he really understood me…it did lose something in the translation, but being respectful of my place there as the guest and his teacher, (his words, not mine), he let it go.  J

 

The room we are working in is right on the main square of the building and has giant French doors that open out into the courtyard.  I draw quite a crowd for most of the day and one man in particular sits across from me and watches almost all day long.  It turns out that his name is Lasier and he does all of the woodwind repair for the symphony.  He is really paying attention and within a half hour, anytime I search for something in the pile of tools in front of me, he actually picks it up and hands it to me!  I am going to be sorry to see him leave!  It is like having your own bow-rehairing assistant!  J  I offer to teach him to rehair, but he says no, that he prefers watching, so I continue enjoying his assistance.  At one point in the afternoon, he left for a moment and returned carrying two small fried apple dumplings.  He handed them to me with a smile and said, “For you”.  I was so touched.  And I really appreciated his thoughtfulness.  I was beginning  to get quite grumpy when it hit me that it was 4 o’clock and I had not had anything to eat since last night.  Lasier surely saved the day and I resolved to take a little better care of myself tomorrow.  It would be a poor showing in Cuban/American bow relations is I bit someone’s head off for no reason at all!! 

 

Finally at 6 o’clock, I call it a day and tell him that we are done.  My will is strong but my eyes are shot.  As we clean up, he keeps saying, “Do you want to go to my house for a beer?”.  After going round and round, I finally convince him to sit with me in the square to enjoy our drinks, rather than sit inside.  He takes a seat next to me on a wall and looks bored as the people stroll by and the breeze rustles the trees.  An elderly man walked by carrying flowers and I asked Merlin who he thought the flowers were for.  “They are for his wife”, he said with disinterest.  “No!” I cried, “I think they are for his secret girlfriend!!”  And with that I introduced him to my favorite game……making up completely ridiculous stories about the people that are walking by.  J  Soon, a man carrying a shoe box and a woman with a drink sat across from us.  “He is in love with her!!” I said with great dramatic affect, “But she only likes him for his drinks!”  Merlin deadpanned, “And because he buys her shoes. “  I laughed and laughed and finally said to him, “See…..isn’t this fun!?”  “At this moment, I am very happy”, he said softly.  We talked some more about secret girlfriends, (he has two) and working hard, (he has three jobs), before throwing our cans away and heading for home. 

 

On the way to my casa, I try to explain to him that I don’t want his mother to cook me dinner and for him to entertain me.  I want to go check my email and have a quite dinner.  He takes a lot of convincing, but finally says goodnight.  What does one do when kindness clashes with conscience?  I love his family, and enjoy spending time with them, but I do NOT want to be a burden to them!  Feeding an extra person three times a day is not only a big expense, but is a lot of extra work for his mother It seems that when Martin, the other LSF person, comes to visit, he eats all of his meals there, spends all of his free time there and even has his laundry done there!  I don’t know, maybe that was what was expected of me?  But no one told me and I just don’t feel good about it.  I am hoping that in the next few days I can feel things out so that I don’t hurt anyone’s feelings. 

 

I ended my day at the nearby hotel checking my email and having dinner.  It was there that I heard a violin plucking.  I turned around and it was one of the men from the symphony whose bow I had rehaired earlier today!  He came over to say hello and showed me his violin.  It feels neat to actually be out and run into someone I know. J J After listening to his band play for a while, I finally head home.  Anna, my land lady, greets me at the door and runs to the fridge.  She hands me a plate with a small pineapple on it.  With a smile, she lifts up the top and it is filled to the brim with chopped mango and pineapple, “For your breakfast” she says.  How wonderful are these people?  I am going to sleep now, feeling content and well cared for. 

Good night all,

Anna

Day 3- Cuban Mamma's and Muey Linda's

Day 3

 

Did I just get here yesterday?  It is already starting to feel like I have been here a long time.  Every time I go somewhere, the first few days are like a first date.  Of course, I am on my best behavior, but so is everyone else.  They are formal and polite and we eye each other carefully, not quite sure of what to make of each other.  Then it gets a little better, each person a little warmer.  Today, that started happening.  By Sunday, I suspect we will all be one big happy family. J 

 

This morning Merlin was supposed to pick me up at 8 to have breakfast at his house and to go get my visa to work at the school.  I sat on the front porch talking (sort of) to the woman that owns the home I am staying in.  Her name is Anna also, and it turns out she is a retired genetics professor.  Her husband, Alejandro, is the director of the TV station here in town.  In Cuba , the people who have rooms to rent are some of the richest in town.  Their home is lovely, and I am paying $15 dollars a night to stay here.  (Of course, I am paying in Cuba dollars, which is a little bit stronger than the USD.)  Anyway……we sat and 8 o’clock went by, 9:00…..10:00……..finally, she took pity on me and brought me a bowl of fresh pineapple and mango. Yummmm!!!!!  The mango is amazing!!  When Merlin finally showed up, I was only half finished with it, but she kept it in the fridge in my room so I could enjoy it later. J

 

I figured Merlin was on Latin time, (this is an actual thing according to my guide book!!!  Count on everyone being at least 30 minutes later than they say), but it turns out that he was sick.  Not ‘oh I am so sorry’ sick, but “ohhh I should NOT have had an entire bottle of rum last night’ sick. J  Bless his heart; he was seriously, amazingly, terribly hung over.  I asked if he wanted to go later and sleep for a while but he said no, so off we went through Santiago , looking for my visa.  In his neighborhood, we walked down the middle of the street with him greeting just about everyone.  There were people walking everywhere and any time a car, horse drawn cart or motorbike would go by, they would just swerve around us.  The horse or mule drawn carts are loaded with fruit, and each one is topped by an elderly man who looks like the cover of the National Geographic.  You know the type………deep lines etched all over their faces…. thin with gray hair and gnarled hands that look like they have seen 30 lifetimes of work. They don’t pay me much attention, but the other passers by look at me curiously, breaking into big smiles when I smile at them.  Every person but one did this and it made me feel so happy!

 

As we neared the center of town, the traffic and noise swelled and I found myself straining to hear Merlin’s conversation.  We walked for 45 minutes, passing a million pastel-colored shops and businesses, finally arriving at the school.  The sounds of a woodwind quintet battle with those of a saxophone quartet and everything is bouncing off of the salmon colored terra cotta walls.  The entire place has a hacienda-like feel, with the halls being open air and doors leading off to rehearsal rooms and studios.   I know that they don’t have much money, or very expensive instruments, but that has not stopped these people from learning how to flat out play!! 

 

Merlin converses with a group of people in muey rapido Spanish and after waiting a while, a man comes and takes my passport.  I am told that he will have it for two days and they give me a copy to carry around for ID.  Now I am not stupid…the very first rule of international travel is to guard your passport with your life!!  I know that in Europe , the hotels hold them while you are in the building, but you don’t actually GIVE your passport to someone for two days!!  However,  amid a chorus of “No Problema’s” from everyone there,  I realize that this is how it is going to happen.  Sometimes you just have to trust the people you are with and this is one of those times.  J  In the middle of all of this, Merlin makes many rapid exits to find a bathroom.  His late night revelry on the beach is soooo not agreeing with him and he looks terrible!!!  As we leave, I tell him firmly to go home and go to bed. I can tell that he is torn…he wants to be a good host, he wants to take care of me, and mostly he is muey embarrassed, but he desperately needs to go lie down. I explain that if he throws up on me, it will most likely affect our budding friendship, and anyway, I need to find the internet.  J

 

 So I drop him off at his house and I take off to find the Hotel Santiago.  Ahhhh….I wondered where all of the tourists were!  I still haven’t seen a single American, but this is definitely where the Europeans are.  I find the hotel and it is waaay swanky. Huge and fancy with a convention center, I feel just a little guilty for wishing that I could stay there!  I wonder what it is like to live the kind of life where you travel and stay in places like this.  But the thought is fleeting….if I was staying here; I would have already missed a thousand memories with my new Cuban friends.  Give me a room with a local family anytime.  J  I find the internet and check in back home.  It appears that Yahoo has either frozen my account because they think I have been hacked, (because all of the sudden I am trying to log on from Cuba ?!!? ) or they don’t actually allow communication between their US customers and Cuba . In either case, I can’t access my email there at all, so there is no telling when these reports will actually get to my friends.  We will see…..  J I can access Gmail so at least I can tell my folks that I am well and that life is good.

 

After a nice lunch at the hotel and a long nap at the house, Merlin is back, looking a bit better.  J  He takes me to his mother’s house to wait while she cooks us dinner.  We sit in the front room of their home, on five rocking chairs all facing each other about two feet apart.  The small room is made up of cinder blocks that have been white washed and there is a big pile of bricks lining one of the walls.  Merlin’s father explains that they are slowly doing construction on the house and that when he has the materials, he can do the work, but it takes a long time to save up for the materials.  The rest of the house is in a room behind a sheet that has been nailed up across the doorway.  I catch a glimpse behind it and see a small space with a double bed taking up most of the room.  I know that the cooking takes place in there, but I cannot see where.  As we are talking, the conversation turns to coffee and they explain that the best Cuban coffee is exported and that the locals only get the poor quality.  I tell them that in the US , Café Cubano is wonderful and is the best part of going to a Cuban restaurant!  Merlin’s mom makes me a cup and it is perfect…heavy, dark and sweet.  I have to learn to do that at home. J

As the evening wears on, Merlin comes and goes, as does his father.  Conversation is at its best when Merlin is here because he speaks pretty good English and can translate.  However, when his father is in the room, most communication shuts down.  It seems like his dad is very, very upset at him for having…ahem….such a good time last night, and is not speaking to him.  I try to keep the conversation going, laughing and saying silly things but it pretty much is going over like a lead balloon. J Oh well,…..

When his mom finishes dinner, we take it to his apartment to eat.  She carries part of it and sets the table before leaving.  I ask if she will stay and eat but she says no, she will eat with the rest of the family.  I am feeling awkward.  I ask Merlin why we are eating at his house, not his families, and he explains that where they eat is very, very small and that there is not room for one more person.  I take that at face value and sit to enjoy the meal. 

 

You know how I have talked about several ‘firsts’ when I travel?  The first moment I know my adventure begins and the moment when I relax and start feeling more at home?  Well, there is another ‘first’….it is the moment when you realize that your best laid plans for keeping your body, more importantly, your digestive system, healthy are coming to a screeching halt.  You can do your best…buy bottled water, brush your teeth with it, not eat fresh fruits and veggies that you can’t peel…..but there is always that moment that washes all of your good intentions down the drain.  It actually happened last night, but then happened again tonight.  Merlin plopped down a glass of cold water from the tap….in a glass that has also just been rinsed off in the tap.  He looked at me expectantly and said, “It is ok…the water here is very good….it will not make you sick”.  Hmmmmmmmmmm……………  I am sorry, I know that a savvy world traveler would have kindly said, “No, thank you”, and left it at that.  But as I looked up into the face of this young Cuban man who was trying so, so hard to be a great host to me, I just couldn’t.  I couldn’t say ‘no’ last night, and I couldn’t say ‘no’ tonight.  I may pay for it later but some things are more important.  As I ate the cooked pork and rice his mom made, I felt very lucky to be welcomed into this family.  I ate the un-peeled fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, knowing that this kindness was worth all of the traveler’s stomach discomfort in the world.  J  I will double up on all of the immune system stuff that Ann gave me and get on with life. 

 

After dinner, Merlin showed me his collection of double bass music, and before I knew it, he was taking off to get his bass.  On a bicycle.  In the rain.  J  His mom came and sat with me and we talked for 45 minutes, her thinking I know a whole lot more Spanish than I do!  She has no English at all, but we made do. With a lot of laughter and a little help from the worthless Spanish/English dictionary I have, we covered topics like marriage, tennis shoes, music, Salsa, her daughter and the reason she wasn’t playing cello anymore.  At least, I think those were the topics we covered.  J  There is so much I want to know about her…how she met her husband, what she does for a living, and what she thinks about her life.  But for now I will have to be content with shared smiles, laughter and a rough idea of what our shoe sizes are. J

 

Merlin finally arrived with the bass, which he had indeed carried on a bicycle in the rain.  He wiped it off and we proceeded to play a bit.  When he took off to see if a friend of his had his iPod, I continued to play softly while his mother cleaned up from dinner.  “Muey linda......muey linda…” she said softly as the rain continued to fall outside.  I played all of the pretty things I could find, doing my best to make it as beautiful as possible, knowing that tonight, this was the only way that I could say thank you for the kindness she has shown me.   When she walks me home later, I thank her for being my “Cuban mama” and she just laughs and hugs me.  Really, how did I get so lucky?

Buenos Noches,

Anna

The Last Day- Haiti Day 11

Anna in Haiti-the last day   Today is my last day in Haiti. I am half sad, half ecstatic. Sad because I have come to feel like I now know part of Haiti and that I am blending in and finding myself a temporary home here. Ecstatic because I have not really been home for three weeks and I miss it terribly!!! For now, though, I have one more full day of bow teaching, bass teaching and a party for my boys. J   Robert is feeling much better today. The doctor came and gave him some antibiotics, so he is on the mend. He takes some of the guys into the workshop, so I am back down to 3-4 of the boys. I call them ‘my boys’ because age is very different here. A person is considered a child and still lives in the home of their parents until they are 30. They rarely get married before they are in their 30’s, and are definitely still expected to obey their parents. Even at the age of 28 or 29. As a result, a man can be in their upper 20’s, but they will still act like a teen-ager. Simply put, my boys may be in their 20’s but they still act like a bunch of Labrador retriever puppies. J J They are delightful!!   During lunch, Cynthia and I head down to the art gallery for some last minute purchases, and then I go to the market for party food. Armed with cookies, chips and lemonade, I made my way back up to the church. Sweat is pouring off of me…..the sun is out and it has to be 100 degrees!! The roads are packed and I realize that this is my last venture out into Petionville. It makes me sad and I try and take special notice of all of the sights and sounds around me. And yes, even the smells. J   After several more hours of class, it is finally time for the party. The boys bring in a boom box and an amplifier to plug it into. I have no idea where they got that!! However, it makes for a festive addition to the party and we all dance around a little as I set out the plates of cookies and chips that I brought. I perch up on the desk and nibble on a cookie as I watch the guys scarf down the food.  I am so proud of them that I could pop! Several of them aren’t even string players, and most of them had no wood working experience at all. But here they are, 10 days later, rehairing bows functionally. That was my goal….to leave and have them truly be able to work. Mission accomplished. Several of them can even do faceplates and thumb leathers. And of course, there is Allande and his silk wraps. J   At some point, the boys all ask Robert and I to come forward and they make us sit in two chairs as they line up in front of us, grinning. Reginald proceeds to make a heartwarming speech to us both, talking about how much they appreciate us coming and teaching them and giving them this new skill. And that they love us very much and hope that we will come back as soon as we can and as often as we can. Ruby translates it all into English for us and I get all choked up again. Seriously, how great is this? J     Then they present us with gifts that they had all gone in together to buy. We have carved wooden Haiti signs with little flags sticking out and colorful plastic Haiti bracelets. I immediately put my bracelet on, saying that I will not take it off until I get home. They also give us each a thank you note that they have all signed. I am touched beyond reason. J   Finally, the afternoon wears on and the guys start to leave one by one. I grab Cannis and dance with him to the music, him belly laughing the whole time. With this, we all say good-bye. Full of melancholy, I go up onto the roof one more time and am joined by Robert. We can hear the orchestra rehearsing Beethoven 9 below us and I am struck by how surreal this all is. I am sitting on a roof-top, in Haiti, looking out on tents and squalor, street vendors and families, in the midst of a beautiful sunset, while “Joyful, Joyful we Adore Thee” circles around me. I had yet another one of those moments…..”How in the world did I end up here?”. Not bad for a nun from Georgia. J J I am leaving at 6 am to go home tomorrow, so I will sign off from here. As far as adventures go, this has been one heck of a summer. I have learned and grown more than I thought possible. It has actually been quite painful at times, but mostly wonderful, and once again I am full of gratitude for this life that I have. All I can say for now is, ‘thank you, thank you , thank you…….” Bonswa, Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Beethoven 9?! Haiti- Day 10

Anna in Haiti- Day 10     Well, Bernard left bright and early today, leaving Cynthia, Robert and I. Cynthia is a conductor and is just as nice as she can be. We are the only women left in our room and we laugh and joke as we stretch out and enjoy the space. Today, she is starting to teach a Suzuki camp here and I go to breakfast to the sound of little kids laughing and playing. It turns out that Robert is really sick today, though. He has a fever and is staying in bed. I feel so bad for him. He has to go join the others in Jacmel in a few days, so he really needs to get better!!   Since he is sick, I have all 8 lutherie students to myself, and I immediately commandeer the big dining table that we have all been eating on, spreading out all of my tools down the middle. This might have been really difficult had it happened a week ago, but the guys are all really putt-ing along with the rehairs, so I am able to watch them working and step in and correct them from time to time. We spend the morning laughing and I tell them all that tomorrow we are going to have a party. I want to do something nice for them for all of the hard work they have put in and Robert agrees, so we are treating them. The regular time for lunch comes and goes and, knowing that I start teaching at 2:00, and that I have two bass students this afternoon, I finally concede that they are not serving lunch anymore. After all, there are only three of us here. So I head down to the market and pick up a loaf of bread and some cheese. I return and set it on the table telling all of the boys to make themselves a sandwich. They descend on it, literally devouring the entire thing in minutes. J I eat my cheese sandwich looking on with fondness. How did I get 8 Haitian sons between the ages of 17-30? J J Of course, at 2:30, Maline walks in with giant plates of food!! Turns out, we do get lunch, just at a later time. I snag a couple of extra forks and give it all to the guys. This, they devour also. As the day wears on, I check on Robert from time to time, but mostly he sleeps. The doctor is coming to see him tomorrow and I am hoping he can help him. From time to time, a swarm of little children come in the room where we are working and Cynthia and the other violin teachers give group Suzuki lessons. There is a small cellist and from time to time, I jump up to fix his positions or adjust his rock stop. It really does take a village. J My favorite part of the day was when I looked down to see a little tiny violinist wearing a Findley Oaks tee shirt!! Findley Oaks is an elementary school near our violin shop in Atlanta and it is extremely random that here was one of their shirts!! I asked her where she got it, but she just looked at me with these giant, chocolate eyes. Oh well, I guess I will never know….. J After all the excitement and energy of the day, I climb up on the roof for sunset. I miss Robert. We don’t have many more of these evenings left. However, Cynthia joins me and we chat softly about the upcoming concert that has just been sprung on her. The last movement of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. And no, I am not kidding. The real one, not some arrangement. In fact, I had just spent the better part of an hour teaching the principal bassist the Recitative, all the while praying that she wouldn’t ask me to play the Scherzo…..it has been 15 years since I performed it!! The cool thing is, these kids can play this. I just wish I were going to be here to hear it!!    Cynthia and I went next door for dinner, having told Maline not to cook just for the two of us. We talked about conductors and music education and why she comes to Haiti. She, like several of the other volunteers, is at the height of a pretty impressive career, and I am so grateful that the students here are getting that caliber of education. We finally make our way home and climb the dark stair way.      Man, this place is empty and it is feeling like it is time to go home. Bonswa, Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

There She Was- Haiti Day 9

Haiti Day 9 “There she was”     This morning was full of the hustle and bustle of everyone getting ready to leave. Robert and I are teaching until 2:00, but at that point, we have been invited by Bernard to go to the mountains. We intersperse rehairs and thumb leathers with good-byes until the place empties out. From here on, we will dwindle from 5 to 2 people over the next three days. It will seem strange after having all of these folks laughing, talking and playing all around. I will miss them all, but mostly I will miss Kristen, a soprano who is here directing to Petite Chanteurs. She is flat out the coolest woman and we struck up a friendship near the beginning. She makes me laugh a lot and is someone I can talk to so I hate it that she is leaving!! But at least Bernard is still here!!!!   For lunch, Maline, the woman that works in the kitchen, brings us all HUGE plates of food. Up until now, all food was served family style and if you were late for a meal, chances were there would be nothing left! But here she came with a mountain of food for each of us. The night before, we had presented her with a large cash tip and a card thanking her for everything and today, I am thinking that this kindness is her way of saying thank you back. However, I cannot begin to eat it all, and of course, I am not doing the meat at all, so I pile a plate with tons of food and take it to my boys. They all smile and tuck in, calling me “Mom”. It is so funny to hear them all go, “Thanks Mom!!”. Of course, I answer with, “Who is your favorite teacher?!” and they all cry out, “Anna!”. J J Hey, I have to do something to make sure they don’t forget me!!         After lunch, Marie-Noel, one of the violinists in the camp, shows up with her SUV and Robert, Bernard, Cynthia and I pile in for a trip to the mountains. I am so ready for this! I need to get out of Port Au Prince, and since everyone keeps telling me that much of Haiti is not like what I have seen, I am anxious to see it for myself. Poor Robert is really sick, but he comes along, being a good sport. As we twist and turn up the curvy, narrow mountain road, I am constantly throwing my hands over my eyes. Marie Noel laughs and says that she is an excellent driver. I explain to her that it is not her that I don’t trust….it is the other drivers!! Every time we go around a curve, there is a truck or tap-tap in our lane headed straight for us!! They always swerve over just in the nick of time, but it is highly nerve-wracking!   We stop at one point, hoping to see a small museum, only to find it closed. Instead, a guard gives us a tour of a tiny zoo with one crocodile, one monkey and a bunch of chickens. He gives Cynthia and I giant flowers to wear in our hair and we pose for pictures with them before giving them to members of the staff that have shown up in another van. Somehow, these beautiful young Haitian women look completely natural with giant flowers in their hair, while us ‘blanc’ look a little silly. J    As we are leaving the zoo, we get swarmed by a bunch of men that have souvenir stands across the road. One man approaches me with two big machetes and I laugh, trying to explain to him that it is not the best way to approach a woman!! I also explain that I cannot carry a machete on the plane home and finally I accompany him to his booth to see what else he has. After some bartering, we all leave with a few small things, enjoying the process immensely.     Our next stop was a giant fort up on top of the mountain and after much negotiation with a local young man, they forced open an old wooden door so that we could go inside. I think he worked there. I hope he worked there!!! Walking around was really neat, and there are 11 giant cannons at the top, all pointed out around the fort. There had been 12, but the earthquake had done a lot of damage up here and one had fallen to the valley floor below. We had picked up several small children at this point, and I had a great time taking their pictures and showing them to them.    Finally it came time to make our way down the mountains. Bernard had noticed a wood worker on the way up and was hoping that he was still there, on the side of the road so that we could stop and see his work. As luck would have it, not only was he still there, but the building he was working next to was his workshop, so we stopped in to see what he had. As we walked down six steps into the dark interior of his shop, you could smell dampness and wood, lots and lots of wood. As my eyes became accustomed to the dimness, I saw that there were life size carving of men and women all around me. They were stunning. Here we were, in the middle of nowhere, and here was this little tiny old man, and this was all his work?! As we wandered through his workshop, each thing lovelier than the next, I knew that I would love to have something to take home. I looked and looked. Everything was gorgeous.     And then I saw her……      About a foot and a half high, a woman playing what was unmistakably a bass. Ok, well, it kind of looks guitar-like, but it is as tall as her, and she is standing to play it, so in my book, it is a bass!!!! My hands were actually shaking as I took it to him to ask him the price. I didn’t have much money with me, and I was sure that I couldn’t afford it. As Marie-Noel bartered with him in Kreyol, the others were whispering that they would loan me the money if I wanted it. I had approximately $40 on me. When Marie-Noel turned to me and said “1,350 gourds”, it took me a moment to realize that that translated to about $30! I couldn’t believe it!! The next thing I knew, he was counting out my change, chiseling his signature onto the sculpture and posing for a picture with me!! I am so happy!!! The day ended with us all going to a nice restaurant, Middle Eastern, as a matter of fact. Who knew that you could get hummus in Haiti! J Pere David joined us and we all sat around laughing and enjoying bottles of wine. Bernard leaves tomorrow morning and my time here is quickly coming to an end. I know I should be sad, but for now, I am too happy. J Bonswa, Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

A Nun?!?!? Haiti Day 8, part 2

Anna in Haiti Day 8- Continued A Nun?!?!?   After the concert, we all make our way back to the church for a party of sorts celebrating the end of camp. Robert, Bernard, Cynthia and I are staying on for several more days, but most of the volunteers are leaving tomorrow for another camp in Jacmel, another Haitian town on the coast. So, tonight we all celebrate the success of this camp…the one that for six months they were not sure would happen. The kitchen staff has been working like crazy preparing a big meal, and someone has provided the customary bottle of rum that you often find at Haitian banquets. There are tons of people here tonight… not only us, but all of the Haitian teachers and staff members. As the dinner wears down, Pere David, the pastor of the church and co-director of St Trinity School of Music, stands up to speak. He begins by thanking us all from the bottom of his heart and saying that he has a gift for us all. “First”, he says, “We recognize a woman that is here for the first time.”. He goes on to talk about how all of the staff liken this woman to a nun and that nuns are very revered here and that nuns built Holy Trinite in the beginning so that they are very respected. I am looking around trying to figure out who in the world he is talking about when he says, “Anna!!!”     What?!?!? Me, a nun?!?!? The volunteers are all laughing, probably at the look on my face!!! As I join in with the laughter, I go up where I am presented with a beautiful little painting and ‘pinned’ with the Holy Trinite pin. I sit down, shaking my head, wondering what in the world I did to give them this impression! I mean, I am a nice person and all that, but I have done some decidedly un-nun-like things in my life!! J J Oh well………….    As Pere David went through the group, he introduced everyone, talking about the particularly wonderful traits they all brought to the program this summer. It was so great to be able to cheer and clap for all of my new friends. I don’t think they will ever know how much respect I have for each of them. After all of the awards, speeches and accolades, the party broke up and the volunteers all headed next door for a final beer together at the hotel. As we sat at the long table, I asked why the local people thought I was a nun. The general consensus was that because I wore long skirts and a bandana everyday, I looked nun-like. Among lots of jokes, I remarked that my shirts were entirely too low-cut for a nun. At this point, Bernard dubbed me Saint Anna, of Our Lady of Perpetual Cleavage. Scott chimed in from down the table, “Now that is a church I would go to!!” and the conversation descended to lower and lower places. After offering to hear everyone’s confessions and insuring them of my completely discretion and confidentiality, I finally accepted my nun-ship. Hey, there are worse things you could be than Saint Anna of Our Lady of Perpetual Cleavage! J Bonswa, Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Why Did The Chicken Cross The Road? Haiti Day 7

Anna in Haiti Day 7 "Why did the Chicken Cross The Road?   I woke up this morning feeling much, much better. Three cheers for Bernard and his Cipro! Today is Saturday and Robert and I have both agreed that we will not teach today. We both have a mountain of work that we need to do and are having trouble getting it done while teaching students. As for myself, I have a stack of bows that individual students have brought me and I do not trust them to my new re-hairing recruits. So, by 8:15, I am sitting at the bow table, MP3 player blasting the Black Eyed Peas, re-hairing my little heart out.       Allande shows up at 10.….he refused to take the day off. Seriously! So I told him that he could watch me, but that was it. I had to work! He agreed and sat quietly watching me until I finally took pity on him. I had done about 15 bows and was feeling a little more in control of the situation, so I showed him how to do a silk wrap. He practiced for a while and I told him that there was a very good chance that he would be the only person in all of Haiti that would know how to do this. That brought out a huge, genuine smile from him and I was glad that I had shown him.     After lunch, we decided to take the rest of the day off and I headed down through the neighborhood with Bernard, Tom, Robert and Bob. Tom is a graduate cellist with a gentle, fun nature and a great sense of humor. Bob is a percussionist and band director that has literally been everywhere. He is the most well-traveled person I have ever met and he regales us constantly with great stories of his escapades. I am in awesome company with these men and we laugh together as we dodge the traffic, jumping over big craters in the sidewalk, avoiding stray dogs, and ducking around all of the vendors, street kids, and women carrying huge loads on their heads.   There are a lot of white people out today! That is something that you really notice here. I can go several days without seeing anyone non-Haitian besides our group. When I remark on it, the guys say that it is because it is Saturday….the NGO folks and people here doing business in Haiti are out in force. They also say that it is a bad day to buy souvenirs, cause all of the prices will be higher due to the abundance of ‘blanc’, which is what the Haitians call us. J   As we near the art gallery we are heading for, I get caught in a swirl of people crossing a street. Bernard says “Watch out” and I glance down just in time to see an old woman carrying two chickens by their feet try and squeeze between me and another pedestrian. The chickens hit me and I am ashamed to say that I actually squawked! Well, it was like half-squawk and half scream and I immediately clapped my hand over my mouth! How uncool of me! But in my defense, the chickens weren’t quite dead and it was a bit disconcerting to be that close to them!! The guys all laughed uproariously and we kept making our way down the increasingly crowded street.     Down here, it is less tourists, more locals, and we are in a true market area. You could buy all sorts of stuff…..telephone wire, soccer balls, and used shoes….used shoes by the truck load. We continued to duck under dead wires that were hanging down and to jump over big holes in the road, all while dodging the motor bike until we came to the art gallery. It happens to be right next to Café des Arts and we enjoy the afternoon checking out all of the truly beautiful Haitian art.     There is so much that I would love to buy and take home as gifts for everyone, but it turns out that prices in Haiti are decidedly American. I would have thought that everything would be cheaper, but no…..groceries, drinks in a bar, and art are all expensive. Oh well…..    We end the afternoon in an ice cream place where we watch a tremendous thunderstorm from under the safety of an overhang. We have had these storms almost everyday and they are quite fascinating. They move very slowly and the thunder and lightening are truly biblical. When the storm passes, we make our way back home for dinner before returning to Café des Arts for more live music. This time, almost all of the volunteers come along with all of the staff. We have a huge group and have a great time listening to the music and watching the dancers. After midnight, some of the staff invite five of us to go to another club, a Haitian club, for some dancing. I am in!!! I know that we will be safe with all of them and how else would I get a chance to do this?     However, several cell phones started to ring and the staff mysteriously decided that never mind….they were too tired. And that they would give us a ride home. Seeing as how we walk everywhere, this was strange. But we trust our hosts, so we climbed into their cars and are home in a jiffy. Turns out that some ‘not-so-great’ stuff had happened nearby, causing everyone, staff included, awake to the possibility that things were not as safe in Petionville as they had thought.     That turned out to be our last late night out, but it really was great while it lasted. J From here on out, we are confined to either the church itself, or the hotel next door for our evening frivolities. With this crowd, though, it doesn’t matter where we are….we have a great time, regardless. J J Bonswa…. Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Uggg.....Haiti Day 6

Anna in Haiti- Day 6 Ugggggg……….    Well, I got up this morning, feeling really great!! I ran to the market after breakfast to get my boys a treat, and was back before 8:30. I settled down to teaching Allande and started to feel….well….not so great. I didn’t eat breakfast, ( I can’t do food that early here) so it couldn’t have been the breakfast! After twenty minutes, I was in a cold sweat and knew that I was in trouble. I told the boys to keep working, and found one of my room-mates, asking her to tell Janet that I needed to lie down for a minute.     Janet Anthony is the woman in charge here and she is fabulous with a capitol F! She teaches cello at Appleton University and has been coming to Haiti for 17 years. She is also the woman that organized us all to come here. I don’t know if she means to be a surrogate mother to us all, but that is how we all see her, and even though I feel awful telling her that I can’t work at the moment, I am glad that she is there. She comes in to check on me and I tell her that I need to lie down for 15 minutes and that I refuse to be sick for any longer than that. She smiles, says no problem and goes to tell my boys that they are on their own for a while.    I spend the rest of the day waking from time to time as kind room mates give me medicine and our cook brings me lemonade. Sometime in the afternoon, I notice that another one of the beds in the room is occupied and I finally look up to see poor Bernard. He, too, is sick, sick. L Late in the afternoon, we move to the couches that are outside in hopes of catching some sort of breeze. Bernard has a fever, and we are both really miserable. He gives me something called Cipro, which I later find out is a massive antibiotic. It seems to get my stomach under control, but I am wiped. We sleep all day long ….so much for only needing 15 minutes! I wake at some point to find that two more folks are sick….something must be going around.    I feel terrible about missing an instruction day with my boys, but Robert takes them all into the workshop and keeps them going. It goes down as a lost day and it turns out that Bernard and I were the first two in a long line of folks coming down with the crud throughout the next few days. Oh well, hopefully tomorrow will be a better day. Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Red Goop, Anyone? Haiti Day 5

Anna in Haiti- Day 5 Red Goop, Anyone? Today I woke up and I feel a thousand percent better. In fact, I feel like my old self…full of hope and light. I am really glad to be here and glad that my funk-age has passed!! J J I spent the day teaching and once again, the men were really receptive. Everyone here is on ‘Haitian time’- except for my guys. In Haiti, time is kind a concept rather than an absolute. If something is supposed to start at 10, it is not unusual for it to start at 10:30.…11:00.….11:15.…..   Well, bow class is supposed to go vaguely from 9-12 and 2-5ish. I assume that, since we are in Haiti, I can actually start working at 8 and get a bunch of work done before my guys drift in later in the morning. However, it seems that our lutherie students are seriously motivated and most of them show up early every day and refuse to take a lunch break! Oh well, who am I to complain!! J J We spent the day putting hair in the giant pile of sticks that seems to grow each day and I am so happy to see them getting better and better. After class, I climb up on the roof where I am joined by Robert Cain, the luthier from England. Robert is really delightful and each day I like him more and more. He is quiet and thoughtful, but when you listen closely, the funniest, most witty things come out of him!! We have started a sort of habit of watching the sunset off of the roof as we wait for the others to return from camp, and it has become my favorite part of the day. Every now and then, locals walking or driving by will glance up and see us up there. We wave and smile and are met by the most genuine grins. It is pretty great.    As the sun sets, Bernard returned and clambered up with a gift he had purchased. An unfamiliar red liquor with a label that said that it was guaranteed to induce carnal love-making in you if you were 80 years old. I swear I am not making this up!!! We laughed and sat together, passing the bottle back and forth. I couldn’t tell you the name of the stuff, just that we called it the “Red Goop”. We were slowly joined by Janet Anthony, Tom, Scott and a few others. Lined up on the roof, taking sips of Red Goop, I was hit by how lucky I am to be a part of this group. The people here are really extraordinary. They have been coming here for years, and they keep returning for one reason, and one reason only. The students. They are an amazingly dedicated group and listening to them makes me want to be better at my job as well. I am going to do everything I can to earn my place among them.   After most of the Red Goop was gone, and darkness had descended, we all went inside for dinner. Someone suggested going to Café des Arts, a bar about six blocks away, to hear live music and I jumped at the chance to go. Shortly thereafter, I am heading through the Haitian night with Tom, Bob and Bernard. I feel about as well protected as a girl can be. J When we finally enter Café des Arts, I feel completely transported! This place looks like a cross between a theme restaurant and the set of a spy movie! It is completely open in the middle and there are all these trees and palms growing up everywhere. There are couches scattered around and a stage in the middle of it all. The bar is owned by two women from Eastern Europe and the one that we met looked like something out of an art film!! She was very tall and quite intimidating, wearing big spike heels and looking very much like someone I would not want to mess with!   As the crowd trickled in, it became curious-er and curious-er. There are lots of NGO people here…..mostly Europeans and Americans, all looking like something out of a J. Peterman catalog. You know the type, scuffed leather bags, artfully rumpled clothing, waaaay to cool…….. It was the neatest crowd I have ever seen and I enjoyed myself immensely as we sat on a couch sipping rum punch and listening to the music. The band played Roots music and was made up of 4 Haitian drums and one singer. Shortly after they started, they were joined by local dancers and the evening was full of these pulsing, tribal rhythms and stomping, gyrating men and women. It was flat out, the coolest thing I have seen so far. J Midnight came and went and we finally decided that for safety sake, we should head back. We left the Café and was immediately approached by a young boy offering to be our ‘guide’ back to the church. This is quite normal….he just wanted a tip. But Bernard put his arm around me and said, “Do not talk to him!”, and then escorted me all the way up the hill to our church. See!! I told you I was well protected! J   I let myself in our room as quietly as possible, trying not to wake the others and settled down on my sleeping pad. Somehow, the noise, heat and smells seem less tonight and I think that I might just be getting used to Haiti. I sure am starting to love it…… Bonswa….. Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Cookies and Pachabels Canon- Haiti Day 4

Anna in Haiti-Day 4 Cookies, and Pachabel's Canon     Today I woke up really early, considering that a bunch of us were out late last night. :) Even on 6 hours of sleep, I felt awake and really wanted to get some work done quietly before my students get here.  I went in to take a shower, which here, consists of a trickle of cold water in a dank and mildewed shower stall.  It is fairly disgusting compared to American standards, but here I am just totally grateful for it!  Running water is a luxury and I have no complaints. :) The only bad thing is that you get out of the shower, get dressed and immediately start sweating profusely.  Luckily, though....everyone has the same problem and none of us smell all that great. :)  Somehow, not worrying about things like personal hygiene just seem to make us see the real person inside anyway....just like backpacking.         After breakfast, I sat and worked with my headphones, listening to Jimmy Buffett as I cut bow plugs.  Of course, my students show up early and away we go.  They are all in great moods today and we all feel like old friends.  They tease me as I drop a bow, saying "      ", which means 'Careful'.  I have been saying it to them for two days and they are happy to have the opportunity to say it back.  :)  We all laugh and work hard and their work has come along fantastically!!    I slip away twice to teach a couple of bass lessons and enjoy the challenge of teaching through the language barrier.  It is so much easier to do this with music than with re-hairing!!  The atmosphere is insane.....we are literally ten feet away from giant trucks barreling up a mountain road and the constant cacophany of car horns and yelling make it almost impossible to hear each other.  However, there is no other way so they keep playing and I keep teaching.  :)       As the afternoon wore on, I broke out cookies that I had brought for the men and smiles abounded.  Then all of the sudden one of them jumped up, grabbed a beat up old cello and started to play.  Within five minutes we all had instruments and had a wonderful jam session!  We played jazz, Amazing Grace and something Disney that I didn't recognize.  I started to cry as we settled into  Pachabels Canon.  It was one of those, "Oh my god....how did I get here?" moments.  The unhappiness of the last few days is completely gone and I, once again, and totally filled with gratitude. I just want to say 'thank you, thank you, thank you..............." Bon swa, Anna       We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Extreme Luthierism- Haiti Day 2

Haiti- Day 2 “Language Barrier? What language barrier!?” I wake up early this morning feeling pretty bad. I am not sick or anything, I am just feeling so out of place. Two big trips, back to back, I think, was a mistake. Ecuador took so much out of me.....all in a wonderful, great way, but it left me feeling emotionally and physically depleted. Of course, I blame Njål and all my new Tango friends for the physical part!! :) Anyway, I should know better than to come to a place like this so drained. When I woke up this morning, I just lay on that hard floor, with unbelievably loud noise coming in the open windows and thought, "Seriously, Anna....what the hell have you done". I just feel so low.   BUT......I am not so down that I have forgotten two things.....one, this is a life-time opportunity.   And two, I can be of real service here.   Oh, and a third thing....I asked for this.     So.....I will work on my attitude and I will come around. I suspect by early afternoon, I will be my old cheery self again. :)   For now, we are walking to the market down the street to change our US dollars into Gourds. We leave our house and immediately walk by a tent city. It is a bit overwhelming. There are people selling all kinds of things on the streets, and the atmosphere is somewhat chaotic! Traffic consists of tap-taps, cars, motorcycles and the occasional UN truck with machine guns on the back, all vying for the 2 free feet of space on the road. Steve, one of the violin teachers here is wonderful....he gently pulls me back each time I step out into the road. It will be a miracle if I don't get run over!!     The market was small, but interesting and had just about anything you could want...from rum to frozen Friday's Potato Skins. My favorite part, however, was standing in front of the cleaning products with Rob and the others, studying the Ajax, furniture polish and muriatic acid. We are trying to figure out what we can use to clean instruments and bows, and I have to laugh when Robert turns to me and says, 'This really is extreme luthier-ism!"    I, for one, can see why this wouldn't be for some luthiers!! But for me, this is great! I do love the whole, 'fly by the seat of your pants' thing. However, I do suspect that by the end of the week, I will be putting face plates on bows, using plastic milk cartons. My bow teachers may just die..... :) :)   Oh well, off to fix some bows!!     So, it turns out that I was right........It is now almost six and I feel somewhat better. I spent the day teaching two men, Tchoupy and Reginald, how to rehair bows. Without any interpreter after lunch, it got really difficult!! When I originally sent off the email to volunteer for this, I said that I do not speak the language, but that that wouldn’t be a problem. My dad said to me, “don’t you mean that you HOPE that won’t be a problem?“. To which I replied confidently, “No, that will not be a problem”. Well, he might have had a point!! You try explaining the angles of a bow tip mortise using nothing but sign language and my questionable drawing skills!!     And to top it all off, every time I try to say 'Oui' I say 'Si'. I have a lot of gifts and talents, but languages is not one of them. And actually, a lot of people here don't really understand my French so well. Could be because I haven't spoken it in 20 years! But they all speak Kreyol which is now officially the hardest language I have ever attempted. It sounds like a cross between French and Swahili, which should make it fairly do-able for me, but the accent is really giving me a hard time. I will keep working on it!! After dinner.....which for the record, they set out at 3:30, even though we do not eat til 7:30........in 98 degree heat....... Needless to say, I am not touching the meat here!! :)   Anyway...after dinner, almost the whole group went for a drink several blocks away at a kind of upscale place. It is strange, you walk by tent cities and it appears that there is abject poverty everywhere. Then, out of no where, there will be a really nice place. Everyone tells me that Petionville, which is where we are working, was the nicest suburb in Port au Prince. As a result, there are these anomalies tucked away....a wonderful hotel with a swimming pool, a beautiful restaurant, a little market. All I know is that if my mother and father could see me walking through the dark streets of Haiti at 9:00 at night, dodging motorbikes and rubble, they would NOT be happy. But I am one of 14 people so I feel pretty ok about it. :)     Once again, for the umpteenth time in the last few weeks, I find myself sitting at a table with a big group of people laughing and talking over each other in different languages. I am sitting next to Bernard, a violinist my age from Paris and we are exchanging stories about traveling. He is wonderful, wonderful and offers to go with me to the market to buy some souvenirs. Between him and Steve, my traffic guardian, I feel like I am starting to have some friends here.    My first full day in Haiti is finished and I am interested to see what the rest of it holds. For now, as I brush the millionth mosquito away, I just really hope I get home without malaria!! :) :) Bonswa, Anna

Good-byes- Anna in Ecuador Day 10

Ecuador- Day 10    Well, my final day has come and the exhaustion has finally hit me! I feel like I have been hit by a truck….but in a good way. J I have to pack up quickly this morning because I will not be coming back here before my flight this evening. Yesterday, Lizbeth and the family left to go to the beach, so the house is quiet as I throw everything into suitcases. I lug my bags the two blocks to the main road to catch a cab to the school.   Njål had an early appointment at the church so the ride to school was quiet. They have a famous instrument from the 16th century that they have invited him to see. The Vihuela is actually a relic of the church, having belonged to Saint Mariana, the first patron saint of Quito, so it is a huge honor that they are letting him see it. When I get to class, everyone is puttering along, working quietly. I lay my head on the work table and tell myself that I just have to stay awake for 12 more hours, then I can sleep on the plane. We didn’t leave the restaurant until after 2 am and when I got home I was too wired too sleep so that five hour plane ride this evening is looking great! J   Before lunch, Njål came back and told me about seeing the Vihuela. It turns out that the priests were very, very nervous about letting him near it, despite the credentials he has. I am hoping that this first meeting will make them more comfortable so that he can study it more in the future.   We went to lunch with Amelia and Phillipe, but it was a quiet affair, with all of us a little subdued. Amelia and Phillipe are the two musicians whose bows I rehaired for the concert last night. They are both great, great musicians and they are tired from the concert as well. They also were the two others that had a Tango lesson with me a few nights ago. They are so much fun! They are young and terribly, completely in love and all week long, Njål and I would look at them and then look at each other, shaking our heads and smiling. They have been a blast to hang out with and I will really miss them! The afternoon sped by and before I knew it, class was done, good-bye hugs all around. Njål and I decided to go to dinner before heading to the airport and ended up sharing a pizza in friendly silence. I will miss him most of all…..he has been such a great friend. He has been patient and let me be me, even when my ‘me’ wasn’t all that great. J Ecuador truly wouldn’t have been the same without him.   We finished our pizza and wine, took a cab to the airport, hugged good-bye and I got on a plane. As the engines revved to life, I found myself swirling one more time……happiness, gratitude, joy and pride. Really, who could ask for better souvenirs. J   Once I get home, I have 22 hours to prepare for my next adventure, Haiti. All I know is if it is a tiny fraction as great as Ecuador has been, it will be wonderful. Buenas Noches, Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Pisco Sours and Tears- Anna in Ecuador- Day 9

Ecuador Day 9     Well, inspiration or not, today I am not having the best day. In fact, I am having a really hard day and spend most of it just trying to smile and teach. I don’t know what is wrong with me, but maybe it is going around. The students seem edgy and Njål and I snap at each other before going off to our separate corners.     As the day goes on, though, we all seem to settle down a bit. Most of the students have gone back to working on their violins today, while I am working with the two girls who are only doing bows. Both of them joined the class late, and neither of them had done anything with the violin class the week before, so I was happy to work with them. They both have come a long way and I am hoping that they keep rehairing bows after I leave. We went to lunch with a couple of the students but I couldn’t eat much. I haven’t had much appetite here at all and today it is just gone. But the company was nice and I was reminded again how quickly my time here is coming to a close. Before that happens, though, tonight is going to be the highlight of my entire stay. Tonight is the big concert and the FOSJE Orchestra is playing Tchaikovsky’s 5th Symphony. I am really, really looking forward to this. Not only do I adore the Tchaik, but I get to see some of our students perform. Tonight, for the first time ever, I made the connection between what I do with bow work and the actual performance, itself. You would think that I would have figured this out long ago….especially seeing as how I rehair my own bow!! But this week, I rehaired two of the musicians bows. They were in such terrible shape, and these people were playing at such a high level that I wanted to do their bows myself. When I saw them up there playing on them, I felt like I had made a true contribution to the performance and it felt really special.     And, of course, I get to see Maestro Aizaga conduct. That, I am really excited about.! The concert started with the trombone choir. I am assuming that no one told them that we had plans to take their studio space because they played beautifully, as if they hadn’t a care in the world! J And then came the Tchaikovsky. As the opening theme flowed out of the orchestra, tears started pouring down my cheeks. Call it inspiration, call it beauty, call it what you will……I was just overcome. It felt like everything was swirling together….how lucky I was to be here, how wonderful Quito is, how proud I am of my students, how grateful I was for new friends, how amazing this program is, how alive I am feeling…..and the tears just kept coming until the applause began. It is a performance that I will never forget. Afterwards, Njål and I were invited to go out with Patricio and a bunch of other people for a late dinner. We ended up at a fabulous Peruvian restaurant and before I knew it, I was ensconced in a huge, long booth between Njål and Belen. There must have been 25 of us all lined up at this table and as the Pisco Sours started coming, the talk and laughter got louder and louder. I switched back and forth between talking cello with Belen and chatting with Njål . When he said, “So….what did the Volturi do next?” I started laughing so hard that I couldn’t breathe. And interrupting from time to time to answer Patricio’s questions, or Belens observations, I finished filling Njål in on the final stories of the Twilight Saga. It was the perfect end to the week. J    Tomorrow is one more day of teaching, but I leave in the evening, so this feels like a finale. And what a finale it is….. Buenas Noches, Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com

Bow Class Fashion! Anna in Ecuador Day 8

Ecuador Day 8     This morning, in the cab going to the school, I remarked to Njål that I thing there is something very special about this place. I should be completely exhausted…..I have been running like crazy and getting by on 3-5 hours of sleep a night. There is no way that I should be feeling so alive! “It must be being so close to the equator,” I said. “No” he said with a smile. “It is inspiration” And I knew immediately that he was right. There was something magic happening here in Quito and I can feel it in my heart.        The students are doing great, today! We have moved on to faceplates and all of the students are rehairing really well. Njål asks me if he can teach violin repair the following day, and even though I really hate to lose a day of instruction, I say yes. In all seriousness, he had a ton more to teach them and time is running out fast. Plus, I do have two student that are only doing bows, so I will continue to work with them. The best part of class at this point is that we all know each other well, and are really comfortable with each other. Juliana comes to class in white pants…never a good idea when two of the guys are still sanding ebony fingerboards all over the place!! J So she fashions an apron out of a cello case and a big black trash bag. When she completes the look with a face mask, I can’t help but laugh. Yep, she really has turned out to be one of my favorite people here!    Lunch was spent with Patricio Aizaga, (the director of FOSJE), his wife and some staff members. The plan is to discuss the future of the workshop in regards to FOSJE.. When Njål and I went to meet him, he was still rehearsing the orchestra, so I got a chance to see him at work. He is truly the most extraordinary conductor I have ever seen. Passion literally radiates out of him and you can feel that making music is a true partnership between him and the musicians. He was so captivating that I wanted to grab a cello or bass and jump in. I have never been that inspired by a conductor!! Lunch ended up being wonderful, but we never did discuss the future of LSF and FOSJE. Instead, Patricio and I swapped stories about Indiana University, Gustavo Dudomel and different musicians we knew. The others may have been bored, but it was one of the most wonderful conversations I have ever had! J Later in the day, Patricio and his wife came to tour the workshop and Njål and I took him on an impromptu tour of the building. We have found the perfect workshop and the fact that it will displace the trombone studio is not of any concern to us at all. J J After assurances all around that there is a future for this project, we said our good-byes.    Njål had to teach a quick Tango lesson to three of us at the school and then he and I headed to Café Libre for one final night of Tango. Several of the students are going to meet us there, but he and I are hoping to catch the last hour of the lesson that they offer first. We get there, I put on my ridiculous shoes that I bought for Tango, and Njål and I join in the lesson. The idea of Njål taking the lesson is ludicrous, but I am so glad that he did. I was so nervous that I was glad to have him to dance with. At least he won’t be surprised if I step on his toes!    We dance two dances and I can’t seem to do anything right. I got worse and worse and finally, close to tears, I tell Njål that he needs to go find someone else to dance with. Someone who knows how. But he says no. So we keep dancing. But the teacher chooses that moment to make us all switch partners. I end up with a man who is obviously very unhappy to be paired with such a beginner. He kept barking terse dance instructions to me in Spanish and by the time the song ended, I had to step outside for some air.  I don’t think I like Tango very much.   I hid for the rest of the lesson and then joined out friends at the tables they had pulled together. Soon, Kathy showed up and I was so glad to see her! She is a wonderful dancer and I love to watch her. If I could ever dance like that, I would die of happiness!! J And, with her here, Njål can dance with someone that really knows what they are doing, so the evening is looking up. However, I am done dancing for the evening. I take one last turn around the floor with Juan Carlos, but my self esteem can’t take it anymore. I have spent a week stretching myself and being brave, I am done. As the evening wound down, it came time for the final three songs of the evening. Njål walked over to me and held out his hand. You have got to be kidding me. I shook my head, but he said, “Come on.” With a sigh, I got up. The first few steps were dreadful and I thought I was going to cry right then and there. But Njål , always the teacher, said, “Just close your eyes and trust me.”. And like that, I was floating. I floated and spun and stepped and followed and before I knew it, the song was over. I looked at him with big eyes and couldn’t believe it. I just Tango-ed! The next two songs went by without me noticing…..I just closed my eyes and trusted him and Tango-ed. I probably looked ridiculous to an on looker, but I felt alive and confident and beautiful. I think I love Tango. Buenas Noches, Anna We're Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! www.traildames.com